For the rhinos I am using in this army, I used only bits from the chaos vehicle sprue. I added a dirge caster to both of my rhinos because they are a great, cheap upgrade and I typically make my points back each game I play. In past armies, I have used the doors and front armor from Forge World which look awesome but are mostly army specific. Since I am going with an undivided army, I stuck with the stock look, albeit more chaos-y. As with most everything I paint, I worked on these for quite awhile and then decided I was done. I could spend hours more finding and fixing every mistake but I always find myself ready to move on at some point.


For my next post, I will show what I changes I made to the Dark Vengeance chosen models to get my 10 man squad and how they turned out painting-wise. Any questions/comments/advice? Please leave feedback and thanks for taking the time to look.



Back when I first started buying the models for this new army, I did some trading on a well known site, bartertown.com. I traded some old Battle Fleet Gothic miniatures for quite a few Chaos Space Marine models. One of them was this Vindicator. The upper part of the model and the cannon is a resin kit from puppetswar.eu and, overall, the model was in pretty bad shape. The first thing I did was disassemble it and clean up the pieces. I then reassembled it and it had some major gaps. I used a lot of green stuff to fill in the gaps and then smoothed everything out. If you pick the model up and really examine it, it still has some issues, but as it sits on the table top, it turned out pretty well.

iQ3NvJfh pD436Ewh LhyDCPIh

On my next post, I will show the rhinos I assembled and painted for this army. By the way, what are you drinking right now? I’ve been stuck on Yuengling Lager for a bit. So tasty..


The next model I painted for my new Chaos Space Marine army was one of the new Helbrutes from the Dark Vengeance boxed set. I’ve always loved the dreadnought models and their game history. This models looks really nice, although it is very limited in weapon choices I.E. there are none except the stock ones. I’ve acquired four of these models from trading so I kept the first one stock (multi-melta and powerfist).


I’ve also modified one to carry a twin-linked lascannon. I did a head swap from the Warhammer zombie models. I also had a metal twin-linked autocannon arm from the old chaos dreadnought that I chopped up and added some aluminum tubing to for the barrels. i added some spikes to the barrels and blended the barrels meeting the flesh with some green stuff.


On my next post, I will show you my vindicator model using a puppets of war big momma cannon. What is your favorite model in the Chaos Space Marine line?

Chaos Cultists

The first unit I assembled and painted for my new army was 20 Chaos Cultists. I really like flamers in the new addition of 40k, so I converted all of the heavy stubber models to flamers. I used the flamer bit from the chaos vehicle sprue that would normally be used as a combi-flamer model. I also modified the cultist champion using a shotgun to using an auto-pistol. I wanted to have the extra attack with him in assault and didn’t want to waste the points on the shotgun. The last modification I did was to create standards for the champions to hold. I ended up buying and trading to get 80 cultists total which resulted in several champion models when I really only wanted 4. I wanted to easily distinguish the champion from the other cultists. I removed a weapon from the champions hand and inserted a brass rod. I then glued various bits from the chaos vehicle sprue and warhammer fantasy zombie models to create the standard. Here is a picture of an example of three models showing the above changes. I apologize, I didn’t plan on writing this blog until a week ago so all of my models have been primed, but hopefully you can see enough.


I have painted to first 20 man squad of these models and below are some examples utilizing the color scheme I mentioned in an earlier post. One thing I did do with the cultists was to show more  brown areas of clothing, which is one of the colors I use when highlighting up to yellow, starting at a black undercoat.


My next blog post will feature Helbrutes. One completed and one in progress.

Now what?…

Where do I start? When jumping into this hobby, most people are faced with that simple question. Like most activities, there is a wealth of information available and innumerable things to spend your money on. The first thing I needed was an updated rule book along with a book for the army I was going to be playing. Since the 6th edition of Warhammer 40k includes a rules book and also Chaos Space Marine models, I decided to pick it up along with Codex: Chaos Space Marines. If you have your eye on another army, or you are playing an entirely different game, this may not be the best option for you. Do some research, talk to some people at your local gaming or hobby store, and pick an army you are interested in.

So now you have a rule book, a codex (or equivalent), and hopefully some inkling of how to play. The next thing you need to do is buy your first model(s) and some basic tools to assemble them. (Click on the pictures below for a direct link to the product on Amazon)

Sprue Snips – Used to cut the models out of the sprue and clip away excess material.

Hobby Knife (and replacement blades) – Used to clean up the pieces you’ve snipped out.

Small Files – Used to clean mold lines of individual model pieces and to blend the joints after gluing together.

Plastic Model Glue – Use on anything plastic to ensure a very strong bond. The set-up time is longer but you will typically be handling these models a lot over their lifetime and don’t want them popping apart every few months.

Gap Filling Super Glue – Use on anything not plastic or as a quick fix. As the name implies, it also has some thickness to help fill minor gaps in a model

These next items aren’t necessarily needed but are nice to have.

Pin Vice – used when pinning to pieces of a model together for additional strength. Drill a hole into each half and use a paper clip or similar small gauge wire to pin together with glue. You can also use a pin vice to add more detail to models by drilling gun barrels or any holes that have a false bottom.

Hobby Mat – Snip, cut, file, drill, and glue your models on this self-healing mat to protect your work surface underneath.

Green Stuff – Used to fill and blend gaps and seams in models. This is also the standard epoxy used for creating your model additions (tentacles, armor, ribbons, anything you can dream of).

Sculpting Tools – Basic tools used for working with Green Stuff.

Once you have acquired these tools, it’s time to start on your first models. By this time, you should have a decent understanding of what you want to build and how your models are to be equipped (i.e. weapons/armor/extras). For my next post(s), I will begin showing what models I am working on, any modifications I made during assembly, and how the finished product looked after painting. I will also try to relay any tricks or tips that I think may help others.